The first step was a quick coat of Tausept Ochre from the spraygun, which is the color I'm planning on using from now on for desert terrain, as the Desert Yellow just doesn't cover well enough.
Not much to look at yet, but I promise, the good stuff is coming. The tree trunks got a coat of P3 Battlefield Brown, as I had some kicking around, and I like the slightly more purple tone that it has as opposed to GW Scorched Brown. The foliage got a coat of GW Foundation Knarloc Green, which is usually my go-to medium green.
That pretty much gets them back to the garish look the bright green and brown plastic had, but now is the fun part. All the foliage gets a coat of GW Leviathan Purple wash. It seems like a funny color, but I really like the dark tone it gets in the veining on the leaves. While that dried, the trunks got a quick overbrush of P3 Bootstrap Brown.
Next, the base and tree trunks got a pair of drybrush rounds, first with Desert Yellow, and then with Bleached Bone. This highlights the sand, and on the trunks works similarly to the Bleached Bone drybrush on the Arcane Ruins- it highlights subtly, and tones them a bit to match the rest of the terrain set. The foliage got a quick drybrush of Knarloc Green to get them back to green, but with the darker veins.
The final touch was the actual water. Over a few days, I did three very thin pours of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. I am slightly concerned that the second may not have set entirely, as there is still a bit of milkiness to the look of the water, but I'm giving it a few days to cure further before I give up on it entirely. Valten appears again for scale.
Sweet.
ReplyDeleteHow would you play this for Warmachine?
Difficult terrain, shallow water, so if a 'jack gets knocked down, they get shut down. I'm actually kind of at a loss in general on how to play the little copse of trees, I think the easiest way is to play it as a tiny bit of impassable terrain for skirmish-formation games, since models can just go around them, and to try to ignore it in WHFB.
ReplyDeleteThe milkyness of the water might not be all bad; since it's a water hole in the desert, a certain amount of sediment and other crap is likely to be in the water, tainting the pristine blue into something dirtier. Not being able to see the actual model, I'm not sure if you can still salvage the milky water by touching it up to look more like sediment water, but it's a possibility.
ReplyDeleteI have seen this piece 1st hand. The milkyness did eventually clear up. The one issue I have with the Woodland Scenics/GW water effects, is that it never dries rock solid. It gets dry to be sure. Dry enough to game with, however if someone sticks a finger on your "pool" you can sometimes be left with very slight finger prints. This can be further touched up with use of a hair dryer to re-soften the water effects and hopefully "erase" the fingerprints.
ReplyDeleteGood looking piece, I especially like the jungle tree..which is amazing because I always hated those trees.
That's a good tip, Bill. Actually, the milkiness I'm seeing is still there, but I think it's just the slightly cool bluish tone of the transparency. I'm with you on hating the trees, but there's an old WD article (I'll have to find the issue) that tipped me off to the purple veining, they actually end up half decent. Still fragile as hell, to be sure, and you have to be VERY thoughtful about how you assemble them, but it is possible to make them look decent.
ReplyDeleteIsn't that why you're supposed to put on multiple layers of the stuff?
ReplyDeleteThis was actually three very thin pours, but I think in the humidity, the second needed more than 24 hours to cure.
ReplyDelete